PlanetEye

Despite its reputation for chaotic traffic and major highways carving up the country, Thailand is becoming increasingly popular with cyclists. Once away from the main roads the country reveals a network of byways passing through a stunning landscape. With the introduction of a cycle tour that combines soft adventure with visit to Khao Yai's vineyards, local travel operator Spice Roads have come up with the perfect weekend getaway.

Living within the concrete confines of Bangkok it is easy to forget just how close we are to some truly fabulous countryside. The usual traffic-congested weekend escape routes from the city all too often lead to Pattaya, a place loathed as much as it is loved. But head northeast instead of south and bright lights, beaches, bar girls and beer boys are replaced by a very different kind of wildlife. A two-wheeled excursion into KhaoYai with Spice Roads provides a unique experience skillfully designed to help riders discover stunning countryside, quiet back roads and dirt trails, abundant birdlife and, of course, a taste of the increasingly popular local wines.

Less than two hours after leaving central Bangkok our minibus, complete with cycle mechanic, half a dozen bikes strapped to the roof-rack and enough spare parts, fresh fruit and drinks to support a major sporting event, pulled up at the edge of Khao Yai National Park. The area has long been regarded as Thailand's finest national park and is known for its outstanding beauty. Buying a prime patch of dirt close to the stunning park became popular with wealthy Bangkokians years ago; prices increased to frightening levels as it was snapped up and holiday homes mushroomed. In more recent years, however, the region has begun to attract bigger players. The cooler Khao Yai climate, fertile soil and proximity to Bangkok mean that the area is now considered one of the best locations in Thailand for growing grapes. On the gently rolling hills and in the valleys that skirt the park, bamboo, bananas and fruits trees are steadily being replaced by acres of grapevines.

Kitted out with top quality TREK mountain bikes and cycle helmets we planned to visit two of the biggest and best vineyards in the area, PB Valley and the Granmonte Estate - by the indirect route. As the first gentle hill approached it soon became clear that we were all going to have to earn our taste of wine. Having done little cycling since my teens and now encumbered by a less than appealing middle-aged spread I decided it was actually good to have a goal to aim for. Spurred on by the promise of drink or not, there is no doubt that cycling in Thailand is the best way to get up close and personal with this beautiful country. The two day KhaoYai Wine Trails cycle tour is meticulously planned and soon after a steady pedal along a stretch of deserted tarmac we turned off the main drag onto a dirt track and were heading towards tree-covered limestone outcrops. It wasn't long before the rust-coloured arteries got the heart beating a little faster. Downhill runs over rough ground were a sobering experience producing involuntary busts of speed and the inevitable panicky snap at the breaks. Exhilarating but not too demanding, the first stretch acted as a good warm up. The track that lead the group on to the Grandemonte Estate became increasingly more of a challenge for some of the unseasoned cyclists but the tour leaders offered an alternatively route for those we not accustomed to such a workout. The reward for enduring the thigh-burning climb up troublesome slopes was a series high speed freewheeling descents. Soon we were rolling passed the thousands of carefully manicured vines that covered the valley floor.

Thai wine production is still in its infancy. The first vineyard in the country, Chateaux Loei, located in the upper reaches of Thailand's northeast, started a mere ten years ago and has lead to many others across the country and indeed in the region. In the beginning many were skeptical about the possible success but Thai vintners have proved everybody wrong and the produce of some vineyards is increasingly receiving favourable responses from abroad. Vineyards have now sprung up in Hua Hin and Pattaya. Cambodia and Myanmar have also joined the Southeast Asia wine club and recently established their first vines. In would be no surprise if the coffee producing countries of Laos and Vietnam soon turn to grapes as well.

The Granmonte Estate currently produces 60,000 bottles of wine a year, a figure soon set to increase to 100,000. Most of the wine is still sold in Thailand but the export market is steadily growing, along with the reputation of the wine. Although few would yet argue that Thai wine is a fine tipple, it is undoubtedly improving. Those who were unfortunate enough to sample Chataeux Loei a few years ago could only describe it as ‘undrinkable'. Today, most Thai wines still lack the body and depth of flavour of imported wine but they are far less offensive to the palette than they were. Where they continue to fall down is on price. The 1,000 baht demanded for a rather bland Granmonte vintage when spent wisely could buy a very fine drop indeed.

Khao Yai National Park and its environs make for a great escape from Bangkok especially when combined with a tour of the vineyards.

The Spice Roads two day, one night KhaoYai Wine Trails cycling tour makes a super weekend break. It covers 60 kilometres of riding through beautiful scenery and includes meals and a night in the Cabbages and Condoms resort. The cycling is not too demanding and is therefore suitable for all ages and levels of fitness. It leaves Bangkok every Saturday morning but can also be arranged for weekdays. The Bangkok based company is the leading adventure cycle tour operator in Southeast Asia and run several tours across Thailand as well as in Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar, Malaysia and the Philippines. For further information visit http://www.spiceroads.com/ 

Wine info: http://www.khaoyaiwinery.com/ and http://www.granmonte.com/

With a host of new bars, clubs, restaurants and shopping malls, Bangkok has become recognised as the trendsetter in Southeast Asia. People flock here from all over the region to experience the vibrant nightlife, fantastic food and unique shopping opportunities.

Shop

Not so long ago the now oh so fashionable Thonglor was just another side street off the busy Sukhumvit Road. The opening of a skytrain station at the end of the soi changed all that. Suddenly, Thonglor was more accessible and it soon became a trendy area to live. New houses and chic apartments sprung up. Boutiques, coffee shops and bars followed. The opening of H1, a hip mini-mall confirmed Thonglors status as the heart of Bangkok’s evolution into a capital of cool. Other notable trendy shopping experiences down Thonglor include, Playground! It is home to a CD shop, a Starbucks with ipod stations, an extensive magazine store and much more. Nearby, Basheer bookstore specializes on volumes on graphic design, photography, art, and fashion. Walk down leafy Thonglor and its many side sois and you’ll discover great little restaurants, shops and spas.

Stay

The Dream Hotel is one of the coolest places to stay in Bangkok. Located on Sukhumvit Soi 15, the Dream advertises itself as five-star ‘Hautel Couture’. The hotel is the brain-child of Indian-American, Vikram Chatwal who also has a Dream in New York. Dream Bangkok blends chic East and funky West. Indigo blue corridors with soft washed out lighting lead you to your room. The Dream is also the location of many jazz parties and promotions attended by Bangkok’s in-crowd.

Nightlife

BarSu is an ultra-cool club housed on the ground floor of the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit at 250 Sukhumit Road. The stylish club serves cutting-edge cuisine, creative cocktails and wine, all in a sophisticated setting. BarSu was conceived and created by a global team of the designers, consultants and artistic talent. The visually dramatic club has immediately become popular with the over 30s Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s present night entertainment scene. The music is an eclectic mix of retro sounds, and refreshing free of techno, rap and hip hop.

Over the last few years a quiet revolution has been taking place within Bangkok's hospitality industry. Driven by a generation of young and affluent design-conscious entrepreneurs, chic boutique hotels have been opening all over the city. Tapping into the emergence of a clear contemporary Thai style and taking advantage of the local service-orientated mindset, the properties offer a real alternative to five-star accommodation. Part of the success is down to timing. The demands of new breed of wealthy young travelers and businessmen tired with 300-room branded hotels where personalized service is always promised but seldom delivered have been the catalyst for change. One of the most recent hotels to open its doors in Bangkok is Maduzi (which in Thai means 'come and see').

The young company (almost everyone working at the hotel is under 30 years of age) consists of handpicked service-minded individuals and team leaders who are willing to take on new ideas and challenge the concept of the traditional hotel. Inside Maduzi, the dimly lit corridors and minimalist décor of the rooms give it a moody and masculine ambience. This is a hotel that not just promises to be cool, sophisticated and exclusive, it actually delivers. Exclusivity is an important factor. From day one, Maduzi  set itself apart from other hotels. The anonymous, wedge-shaped building pushed into the top of Sukhumvit Soi 16 has very little signage and doesn't accept walk-in guests. In fact, on arrival at the hotel visitors are asked to wait at the gate until the booking is checked.

Customer research showed Maduzi owners that most guests were not interested in a swimming pool as they hardly ever had the chance to use it on a business trip. Priorities were a large and luxurious bed, and a work area in the room that offered comfort and convenience. An in-room fax, phone, printer, WiFi and a good audio-visual system were also seen as essential. Instead of a pool, they have opted for a Jacuzzi in each room.

Maduzi Hotel, 9/1 Ratchadaphisek Road, Klongtoey, Bangkok.

Nearest BTS skytrain station, Asoke, MRT underground station, Sukhumvit.

http://www.maduzihotel.com/

For over three decades Siam Square has remained a shopping hotspot for teenagers, students and those looking for a bargain. Close to Chulalongkorn University and right beside the Siam BTS Skytrain station, Siam Square pulls crowds of young shoppers. The block comprises of a dozen parallel streets with smaller lanes connecting them. Here, a small boutiques and stalls sell everything from books and CDs to latest cheap and cheerful fashion and accessories. The emphasis is clearly women, with most of the shops selling clothes. There are some genuinely good deals to be had and don't forget, you can bargain here so try and get the price down before you hand over the cash! Whatever you are looking for, Siam Square is sure to have it. There are plenty of restaurants in the area too, so you can make a day of it. Siam Square is also home to a couple of old style cinemas, the Scala and the Lido. It is easy to see why the area has remained one of Bangkok's most popular shopping districts for over 30 years.

An essential ingredient that adds undeniable spice to Thai life is the country's stunning variety of street food. Bangkok just teams with street stalls serving a bewildering variety of culinary delights. Any visitor to the city is strongly advised to occasionally forego the flashy restaurants and opt for a cheap and cheerful street treat.

Thailand has often been described as a ‘food culture', a statement that implies that food is more than simply sustenance but the centre of almost every aspect of the social life. Indeed, one only needs to wander down virtually any Bangkok street to realise just how true that statement is. Almost everywhere, enterprising vendors have established regular pitches on the pavements throughout the city; many specialising in one particular dish, while others are able to turn their hand to a bewildering amount of dishes. Yet they all have one thing in common, the food they serve is cheap, tasty and ready in minutes, the very definition of fast food. Whether you are looking for a quick al fresco breakfast, a full-blown lunch, a tempting in between meals nibble or something to soak up the ale after stumbling out of a nightclub, the street vendors have it all, almost 24 hours a day.

The availability of food and the mind-boggling range of delicious bites on offer are part of the very fabric of this vibrant city, making it one of the most exciting places in the world to dine. Undoubtedly one of the most frequently heard greetings in the country is ‘kin khao yang?', or ‘have you eaten yet.' Thai people are communal diners and grazers, seldom eating alone and never satisfied with just one dish. After work, street stalls swarm with office staff and the air is filled with the irresistible aroma of dozens of different dishes, the fiery waft of stir-fried chilies, lemongrass scented soups and grilled meats.

Although the typical Chinese noodle or chicken and rice stall is still very much part of Bangkok's culinary street scene, the majority of the street traders come from the northeast of Thailand, economic migrants from the hot and under-developed Issan. As part of the Asian tiger economies much of the Thailand's boom time growth and investment during the early 90s focused on Bangkok, by-passing the rural areas. Resilient and hardworking, Issan people moved in droves to the big city to work as taxis drivers or as labour on construction sites, bringing with them their distinctive music, culture and of course, food.

Far from egalitarian, Thailand's hierarchical social structure meant that Bangkok's elite and middle classes dismissed Issan as ‘baan nok', the back-of-beyond with language and culture strongly influenced by neighbouring Laos. In the not too distant past rich coconut milk curries, the much lauded royal cuisine or the food of Chinese immigrants dominated the diet of Bangkok Thais. But as the labour arrived from the provinces to build Bangkok so did their culinary skills and the adaptable Issan workers soon established streets stalls selling northeastern delights across the entire city. The simple yet fiery food proved a hit with everyone. Somtam, a spicy raw papaya salad, is the most well known dish from the northeast, so much so that it is almost an institution. If anything could now be considered the national dish of Thailand, it is somtam. Made in a large pestle and mortar called a krok, somtam sellers pepper the streets of Bangkok, the familiar pok, pok, pok sound made as the dish is mixed altering passers-by to their presence. Accompanied by the equally famous gai yang, or grilled chicken and sticky rice, a glutinous variety, steamed and eaten with the hand, Issan food is now a regular feature on restaurant menus. Indeed, Issan and Laos restaurants like Hai on Convent Road have set up in the city and are packed day and night.

Street vendors provide a great service and create a very special atmosphere, not only within the environs of Bangkok but across the entire country. The price of food is kept low due to minimal overheads; most pay a small fee for their pitch to shop owners if they are in front of a business and a weekly backhander to the police. Vendors are such an integral part of Thai life it is hard to imagine the city without them. Bangkok authorities, who have said that they believe there are over 43,000 street stalls throughout the city, declared Monday to be a vendor-free day. It is then that you truly realize how much the city's character is defined by these amazing roadside chefs. Yet their wonderful cooking and easy availability of cheap and tasty food is increasingly threatened. In recent years occasional campaigns by the authorities have attempted to remove them from certain areas, blaming them for contributing to traffic problems or stating that they are a nuisance for pedestrians. When international dignitaries visit the country stall owners are often banned from selling on the street in order to ‘clean up the city and create a good impression'.  Keen to create and enforce the rules and regulations that blight many western nations, the authorities seem oblivious to the fact that most visitors love to see and sample the remarkable food.

Dining street-side in Bangkok is an extraordinary experience, a feast for the eyes as much as it is for the stomach, and an essential part of any visit to this great city.