PlanetEye

At one time Carnegie's House of Rock and Roll in Wan Chai was my favorite hang-out in Hong Kong.  Since I've moved to Central District, which is within easy walking distance of approximately a thousand (just kidding) bars and restaurants, I don't get there as often as I used to when I lived in Happy Valley. 

Recently an old friend, who once lived here, was in from the U.S. and we held a mini-reunion at the place.  I realized I miss hanging out there.  I don't remember exactly how my friends and I first started patronizing Carnegie's, but once we started going there, we became regulars for at least 8 or 9 years.  I still get there once a month or so but that's a considerable decrease from the old days.

Our initial impetus was to be there during so-called "Crazy Hour", re-named "Insanity Hour", which runs from 6 to 7pm.  We re-named it "Therapy Hour" and hardly ever missed a Friday night to say nothing of quiz night on Mondays and the occasional mid-week get-together. 

During "Insanity Hour" all well drinks, beers, and the house wines are HK$20 (US$2.60). This compared to regular prices of HK$45 and up. I've never found a place in Hong Kong that has a better price. Not only that, the server comes around and warns you before "Insanity Hour" morphs into a more traditional Happy Hour so you can order as many additional items as you want and drink at "Insanity Hour" prices for at least another hour or more.

Not that Happy Hour Prices are that bad at HK$28 (US$3.60) for most drinks. Happy Hour runs from 5 to 9pm. They serve complimentary hot snacks from 7 to 9pm. I shouldn't admit this but I sometimes fill up on the snacks and skip dinner. They usually serve cut-up sausages, spring rolls, samosas, french fries, and chicken strips. No limit on how many you can appropriate.

As I mentioned above my friends and I re-named Friday night's "Crazy Hour," "Therapy Hour," as we used the time to gripe about our jobs and anything else that was bugging us. Commiseration was encouraged.  Criticism was banned.

Another regular event we would attend was "Quiz Night" on Mondays. At one time it was extremely popular but interest has waned and it isn't anywhere near as exciting as it used to be but it's still fun if you can put together a reasonably large group.

They have a surprisingly extensive food menu with snacks, pub grub, sandwiches, pasta, Asian food, day-long breakfast, and even a few main dishes for the truly hungry. They feature lunch-time specials that are really special.  The wine list is quite extensive and a lot more interesting than in any other pub I've been to in Hong Kong. 

My favorite sandwich is the Steak Baguette. I'm also very partial to the Chicken Wings and the Chicken Strips. They also feature 100+ different types of shooters. Shooters are not my style but others seem to go for them, especially late at night.

Around 10pm the bar dancing begins. Anyone can get up on the bar and dance. There are brass rails to keep the more enthusiastic dancers from raining down on the bartenders.  Bar Dancing seems to be a quite popular activity for bachelorette parties. Carnegie's has special promotions every night.  The promotions change but every night, after 9pm, there are price breaks on something.

The music, sometimes played by a DJ, is 100% Rock and Roll, much of it Classic. The owners also have local bands in from time to time and are noted for their support of local musicians, both here and at the near-by Wanch Bar, which they also own.

In case you were wondering, I have absolutely no connection with Carnegie's except as a loyal customer though not as loyal as I once was.

Since they don't have a web-site, here's some basic information.

Address: G/F, 53-55 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong Island
Phone: +852 2866 6289
Open Hours: 11am-2am daily
Happy Hour: 5pm-9pm daily.
Insanity Hour: 6pm-7pm daily.  

I bought a car a few years ago from a friend transferring to Singapore.  I thought I got a good deal.  I was wrong, big time.  I owned it for two years at an annual maintenance cost of about HK$6,000 (US$780) and managed to drive it somewhere three times in the two years.  Why did I use it so rarely?  Because I didn't need to.  With parking and traffic jams, it was often more expensive and slower than using public transportation.  One of the wonderful features of Hong Kong is that you can get anywhere you want using trains, ferries, busses, mini-busses and taxis.

In my opinion, Hong Kong has the best public transportation system in the world. Depending on where you are going and how quickly you want to get there, you have an abundance of choices.  Also, I have never found an urban transportation system that is a better value.

Earlier this year the MTR (subway) and the KCRC (railway) merged into one system called the MTR Corporation.  The system is superbly run, reasonably priced and user friendly. Signs are in English and Kanji. Announcements are in Cantonese, Putonghua, and English. Cars are clean. Eating is not allowed. There are no toilets in the MTR stations but there are in the old KCRC stations.

You can ride the system to within a half hour walk of 90% of the places you are likely to want to visit. There is also a light rail system in Tuen Mun, New Territories.  You can buy Octopus stored value cards, which save money and aggravation, at any of the stations.  These cards can also be used for small purchases at 7-11, McDonald's and other retail and fast food outlets.

The bus system is incredible. There are three bus companies all of which have web-sites with routes and maps. City Bus and First Bus, both owned by NWS Holdings and Kowloon Motor Bus(KMB) will take you to within a ten-fifteen minute walk of almost anywhere you want to go. Most bus signs are in English and Kanji. The busses accept Octopus Cards. 

There is an extensive mini-bus system. Green busses run on Government approved routes.  The link will take you to the Transport Department website showing all the routes.  Red busses run on routes that are less popular. They can go anywhere so there are no route maps.  You flag down a mini-bus the same way you would flag down a taxi - wave your hand, palm down, at shoulder height.  Both Green and Red busses have destination signs in English and Kanji and if you carry the name of your destination written in Chinese, the driver will indicate if his is the correct bus and will warn you when to get off. 

In spite of some complaints, I have found the mini-busses to be completely safe.  The government is now trying to implement a seat belt program on the mini-busses and enforce it with periodic inspections and fines.  They tried the same thing with taxis about five years ago and it failed.  One of the problems is the seat belts don't fit large Western bodies, like mine.

The driver will stop at the first available opportunity after you yell out "Stop here, please" or if you want to risk Cantonese, "Yau luk, mm goy" . Many take the Octopus card.  Mini-busses may appeal more to the adventurous visitor but don't let that stop you because in most cases, a mini-bus will get you within 2-5 minutes of your ultimate destination.

You can always find a taxi in Hong Kong. The longest I've ever waited is 15 minutes and that was very late on a cold and rainy night. Most of the time I get a cab almost immediately.  As I mentioned earlier, the proper way to flag down a taxi is to wave your hand, palm down, at shoulder height.  The flag drop is HK$16 for two km and HK$1.40 for every fifth km after that, cheaper in the New Territories.  I understand a rate raise is in the works. 

Taxis are metered and I've never encountered dishonesty. Tip only the small coins you get in change. If you are a visitor it's best to carry your destination written in Chinese. Not all drivers speak English.  Drivers tend to prefer to work either the Hong Kong or Kowloon side.  There are specified spots for finding taxis that wish to get to the other side.  Tunnel tolls are doubled except for these taxis.  

I almost forgot the ferries, especially the world famous Star Ferry running between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. It has its own terminal.  There are also ferries to all the major Islands from the Central Outlying Islands Ferry Piers.  There are also smaller ferries called Kaitos leaving from multiple locations such as Aberdeen, Stanley, Sai Kung, etc. You can find all the information you need on the Transportation Department website.

From the airport, try the Airport Express, 23 minutes to Central. If you are on a tight budget try the Airport Busses which go to all major locations. Traveling first class?  Take a hotel limo or hire a private one.

Lastly, be prepared to walk. Hong Kong is a great place to explore on foot

The Hong Kong Heritage Museum in Sha Tin had been open for over five years before I ever visited it.  I had pictured some small second-rate place with amateurish exhibits.  I could not have been more mistaken.  If there is one museum in Hong Kong you should make a special effort to visit, it's this one.  I love the History Museum and kids love the Science Museum, but for really getting a sense of what created and maintains Hong Kong's culture, this is the place to see.

It is a professional, impressive complete museum with 12 exhibit halls, six of which house permanent displays, one of which is an orientation theatre for new visitors.  There is the New Territories Heritage Hall featuring the history of the New Territories, the Cantonese Opera Heritage Hall, a mind-blowing exhibit of artifacts and history including costumes and old movies, the T.T.Tsui Gallery of Chinese Art and Calligraphy, the Chao Shao-an Gallery of Contemporary Chinese Art and the Children's Discovery Gallery.

There are also six thematic galleries for temporary exhibitions.  Other than galleries, the museum has a theatre for various performing arts and talks as well as a café, a traditional Chinese tea shop plus a museum store.  The featured special exhibit at this time is "Jewelry for Life" running until February 16, 2009.  It is number six in the museum's design series.  As you might guess, the newest temporary exhibit is "the Ancient Olympic Games" running until November 24, 2008.

The setting is bucolic and easy to access by train.  The exterior of building, rendered in a somewhat traditional Chinese style, is not that attractive, though many architects might disagree with me.  The 28,500 square meter interior is impressive, though, with a huge open center five stories high, and the galleries and exhibition halls around the periphery.

When we visit, we obviously spend most of our time at the special exhibits but are always drawn to the Cantonese Opera Exhibit, which is a piece of Hong Kong I have totally missed and am fascinated by.  The two Chinese Art galleries are interesting but not compelling, unless you are more knowledgeable than I am.  The history of the New Territories duplicates some of the information in the History Museum, but for someone unfamiliar with the history of Hong Kong, I think it would be quite an eye-opener.

The museum is served by multiple bus lines and has two rail connections.  My wife, Pam, and I like to access it from the Sha Tin station as the 15-20 minute walk takes us through a very nice park along the river.  The park itself is full of interesting goings on, especially on weekends.  If you go via the Che Kung Temple Station, the walk is a mere five minutes.  Check this link for all the transportation alternatives.

There is much written and available about the tourist attractions of Hong Kong.  Just pick up any guidebook.  My role is to write about those things you won't find in most guidebooks.  The outer islands, especially the smaller ones, are rarely mentioned.  I'd like to remedy that deficiency here.

There are more than 260 islands within Hong Kong Territory.  More than 220 of them are uninhabited.  Most of them are accessible only by private boat - some have walking trails, most do not, some have restaurants, most do not.  Locals have been known to discourage visitors, although I have never personally had a problem.

This is one of a series about some of the accessible islands.  Previous articles covered Lamma, Cheung Chau, Peng Chau and Po Toi.   Today I'd like to look at Tap Mun, a small sparsely inhabited island.

Tap Mun, Tap Mun Chau, its formal name, or Grass Island, as it is sometimes called by locals, is located in the northeastern part of the territory, north of the Sai Kung Peninsula. There are about 100 people living on the island, down from 1950 50 years ago.  Most of the residents make their living by fishing and then sun drying the fish and shrimp which are popular purchases by visitors.

Until 1960, the fishermen and their families lived on their boats.  That changed when the government built the "fishermen's new village" for residents to live in. The island's area is just under 2 km². So give yourself at least three or four hours to explore plus time for refreshments and/or seafood.

The first thing you will see on arrival is Tolo Harbour which is usually crowded with fishing boats.  After landing at the pier, you can turn left and stock up on water and other necessities at a local store before heading out.   You will first encounter a Taoist cemetery and then the over 200 year old Tin Hau Temple on your right.  Tin Hau is the protective goddess of fishermen.   If you're lucky and a strong east wind is blowing you will hear an eerie howling from under the altar.  Some locals maintain that this presages a bad storm.  The temple is definitely worth a visit.

After visiting the temple continue on the same path.  Follow the signs to the Hill Top and Balance Rock - about a 15-20 minute walk.  Balanced Rock is so named because one rock sits in perfect balance atop the other.  This stacking formation is quite unique and looks like a pagoda from a distance.  On the other side of the island in Ko Lau Wan is a similar area called the "Stone Pagodas".  This is actually how Tap Mun, i.e. "pagoda door" got its name.  

At the Hill Top you will discover the Sun Rise Pavilion with views of Mir's Bay, Sharp Peak and Mainland China.  If you dare, you can fly a kite from here or watch others doing it.  This is also a popular bird watching site.  If you feel very adventurous you can camp the night through.  Beware, though, at night the temperatures drops and the winds pick up so bring appropriate clothing.  Also do not camp too close to the cliffs.  

If you are interested in seeing a truly authentic South China fishing village continue north to Lung Keng Kan and Che Wan.  You can also climb to the highest point on Tap Mun, 125 meter high Mau Ping Shan.  Be alert because the path is not always obvious and the brush can be quite heavy to say nothing of the cow dung you might step into.  

There is one rather famous seafood restaurant, New Hon Kee Restaurant, (2328-2428), a local celebrity hot spot.  Their signature dish is fried rice with locally caught sea urchin.   Nearby are a couple of small tea restaurants (cha cha an teng) known for serving 'ice-less' ice-cold milk tea and boiled squid dishes.  The best known of these is Sun Wai Wo (2791-8100).  The Yung Shue Village Seaview Café (2791-8332) has the only room for rent on the island - around HK$250(US$32.50) for two people.

To get to Tap Mun you can catch a ferry or Kai-to from either Wong Shek Pier in Sai Kung or Ma Liu Shui Pier near Chinese University in Tai Po.  Round trip prices vary between weekdays and weekends from HK$32(US$4) to HK$50(US$6.50) round trip.   You can also hire a speedboat from Sai Kung for about HK$100(US$13).  Be sure to make arrangements to get picked up if you wish to return by speedboat.

However you do it, a visit to this island will provide you with an experience that few tourists ever enjoy.

There is much written and available about the tourist attractions of Hong Kong.  Just pick up any guidebook.  My role is to write about those things you won't find in most guidebooks.  The outer islands, especially the smaller ones, are rarely mentioned.  I'd like to remedy that deficiency here.

There are more than 260 islands within Hong Kong Territory.  More than 220 of them are uninhabited.  Most of them are accessible only by private boat - some have walking trails, most do not, some have restaurants, most do not.  Locals have been known to discourage visitors, although I have never personally had a problem.

This is one of a series about some of the accessible islands.  Previous articles covered Lamma, Cheung Chau and Peng Chau.  Today I'd like to look at Po Toi, one of the smallest of the inhabited Islands.

Po Toi is about three or four kilometers S.E. of Hong Kong Island.  It's about four square kilometers in size and can be easily circumnavigated in about three hours or so.  

It's a favorite destination for geology and archeology buffs, bird watchers, weekend hikers, young people out for a little adventure and those of us who love the seafood there.  There is a fairly well-marked trail that winds around the island and will take you to or at least near almost all the sights you would want to see.  It also provides vistas of the South China Sea and many small neighboring islands.

There is also a figure eight trail that is much rougher but far less crowded especially on weekends.   My wife, Pam, reports that one of the less popular parts of this trail is covered with giant spider webs and it took all her courage to break through them and continue her hike.   The good news is that she didn't see any giant spiders, just their webs.   They must weave them at night.

Ancient Rock carvings on the island that date back over 2,000 years have been listed as "Declared Monuments of Hong Kong".   You will find them just off the main trail between the harbor and the lighthouse.   It also has a number of interesting rock formations among them are the Buddha Hand Rock, the Coffin Rock, and the Tortoise Climbing up the Mountain.

At the island's highest point, 188 meter Ngau Wu Teng, there is a shaded pavilion that allows hikers to take a break, enjoy the view and cool off.   There are steps up and down from the top so if people take their time almost everyone can access the pavilion.  

A mansion, once owned by the Mo family, is also on the trail and is a fun place to explore especially for children.   It's supposedly haunted.   It was also used to house Japanese soldiers during WW II, adding to its mystery.

At the end of your hike you have two choices, you can visit the local grocery and eat and drink sitting on the steps outside or you can join the likes of me at the Ming Kee Seafood Restaurant which is very near the pier.   The food is excellent and if you are there on a weekday, you will pretty much have the place to yourself.   I understand there are a couple other restaurants nearby but they aren't nearly as appetizing and are often closed on weekdays.

Ferries run to Po Toi from Aberdeen's Promenade Pier on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays and holidays.  Except for Sundays and holidays there is only one ferry a day.   There are four on Sunday.   You can take a ferry from Stanley's Blake Pier near the Stanley Market on weekends and holidays.  The last time I went the fare was HK$40 (US$5.20) round trip.    I understand there is ferry service from North Point but I've never ridden it.  Details are available at this ferry link.

I am an unabashed hamburger freak.  I make no excuses.  One of the first questions I ask when I arrive in a new place is, "Who makes the best hamburgers in town?"  That doesn't mean that a hamburger joint will be my first stop but when the need hits me, I want to be prepared.

I will save you having to ask that question because after extensive research, I have come to the conclusion that the best "traditional" hamburger in Hong Kong can be found at McSorley's Ale House (click on the link for directions).  By traditional, I mean made with 100% ground or minced beef, served on a bun, not covered with a fried egg whether I want one or not,  not including beets or chopped cabbage, not covered by some sauce, etc.  

I have also eliminated hamburgers made with Wagyu beef, covered with exotic fixings, served open faced, and costing upwards of HK$250 (US$32) as recently introduced into Hong Kong.   Nor am I comparing my favorite with McDonald's, Burger King, Jollibee, Hardees, etc. either.  These are fast food venues and cannot compete with a made-to order hamburger served at your table with beer or wine available to order.  I have eaten fast food hamburgers in my day but only as a last resort or because I was in an airport or in a huge rush.

Back to McSorley's - their basic hamburger is served with bacon and cheese. They usually have 3 other specialty burgers but the customer can also order it nude or as I do with only grilled onions and grilled mushrooms.  The bun reminds me of a Kaiser Roll and is touted to be homemade.  All I know is that it's fresh and large enough to cover a half pound of meat.  They usually feature an exotic burger like the current offering which is covered with Brie cheese, but I always pass on those as good as they might be. 

The sandwich is accompanied by McSorley's excellent Fat Chips (fries) and a very good coleslaw plus lettuce, tomato and a bermuda onion slice, all of which can be piled on top of the burger if you wish.  I must admit I always get a side of mayonnaise as I do throw on the tomato and lettuce.   

Lest you think that McSorley's only serves hamburgers, I assure you that they have a full pub-type menu including appetizers, soups, salads, other sandwiches, main dishes like Fish and Chips, Beef and Guinness Pie and Chicken Tikka.  They also serve desserts which frankly I've never tried - too full.  Prices are very reasonable by Hong Kong standards.

While I usually stick to my favorite, I have tried some of the appetizers and my companions have ordered a number of the other items and we all agreed they were quite good.  My wife, Pam, who is as addicted to Caesar salads as I am to hamburgers, loves their Smoked Salmon version.

While I've never been there on the weekend, they do serve a brunch that sounds great.  It even includes roast beef, surprisingly.

Another piece of good news is that smoking is forbidden, although smokers can step outside to satisfy their addiction, drinks in hand.  Since the front of the place is open to the street, it appears to me that it would not be a great hardship for smokers.  On the other hand, families and those who do not appreciate second hand smoke are now welcome at all hours.

As do most of the pubs in Hong Kong, McSorley's features lots of sporting events on TV monitors posted throughout.  The noise can be a little distracting but there are tables in one section where those who wish a quiet conversation can sit.

For months, I walked by McSorley's sign saying they had the best hamburgers in Hong Kong, thinking, "yeah, right" and never giving them a try.  When I finally did, I discovered, at least in my opinion, that they do indeed have the best hamburgers.

There is much written and available about the tourist attractions of Hong Kong.  Just pick up any guidebook.  My role is to write about those things you won't find in most guidebooks.  The outer islands, especially the smaller ones, are rarely mentioned.  I'd like to remedy that deficiency here.

There are more than 260 islands within Hong Kong Territory.  More than 220 of them are uninhabited.  Most of them are accessible only by private boat - some have walking trails, most do not, some have restaurants, most do not.  Locals have been known to discourage visitors, although I have never personally had a problem.

I plan to write about those islands that are more easily accessible in a series of articles over the next few weeks.  I've written about both Lamma and Cheung Chau.  Today I'd like to look at Peng Chau, one of the smaller inhabited Islands.

Peng Chau, noted for its laid back, rural lifestyle, is a tiny island situated 8km west of Hong Kong Island and a short distance from the southern coastline of Lantau Island.  Its population is over 6,000 which makes this kilometer long island fairly densely populated.  It has similarities to its neighbor Cheung Chau but has far fewer activities available.

One of the first things you will notice is that there are no automobiles, just bicycles and motorized carts.  You can pretty much hike around the island in a little over an hour.  Luckily there aren't many hills, the highest being Finger Hill at 95 meters, which does offer some fine views of all of Peng Chau plus parts of Lantau, Cheung Chau, and Hong Kong Islands.

A suggested hiking route circumnavigating the island can be found on the Discover Hong Kong web-site.  Go to Page 13 of the Outlying Islands PDF File.

If you don't feel like hiking, you can wander the narrow streets close to the pier where you will find a covered market and many shops, restaurants and a few temples, particularly the Tin Hau and Kam Fa temples.  There is a paved promenade nearby on the Southwest side of the island.  

If swimming or sunbathing is your thing, try Tung Wan which is very nice sandy beach directly across the island from the Ferry pier.  If a rural stroll interests you, there are some small farms and a larger organic farm run by the Green Peng Chau Association near Tai Wo in the south-east quadrant of the island.

You can also explore some archeological sites, visit a defunct match factory, once one of the largest in the world, check out the eight other temples or explore the bio-diversity either alone or guided by Green Peng Chau Docents. Check their web-site.  

To visit Peng Chau, check the First Ferry schedules or catch a Kaito (pronounced "kai-do"), a type of small, motorized ferry, from Cheng Chau or Discovery Bay on Lantau Island.

Enjoy!